New
York Times
On the Beach, a Brand New Life
Published:
February 13, 2005
By
JEFF VANDAM
MARISOL
GUIVAS met
her husband-to-be one day in 1998 through an instant message. She
lived in the Bronx, he in Brooklyn, and she asked his name. It was
Angel, he said, and like his future wife, he had a keen interest
in the heavenly figures that were his namesake. One of their first
dates was to see the Internet love story "You've Got Mail."
They seemed destined for each other.
Marisol
and Angel were married in 2000. They lived in the $32,000 one-bedroom
co-op that Angel had bought as a bachelor in Sheepshead Bay. He
had grown up there, the only Puerto Rican kid in a neighborhood
of Italians, and now he and Marisol were starting their family there.
Their son, Gabriel, was born in June 2002, and as he grew out of
his crib and into his big-boy bed, the co-op began to feel too small.
They
looked north, to new construction under way in Harlem, and east,
to homes in Long Island. Then an item in the newspaper caught Marisol's
eye. It mentioned a lottery for brand new seaside homes in a complex
to be named Arverne-by-the-Sea, in Queens. It was a 20-block stretch
in the distant Rockaways, the string-bean-shaped peninsula that
juts into the ocean south of Kennedy Airport and Jamaica Bay. It
was only 10 minutes from Angel's job at the post office in Howard
Beach, and would become a vast development of homes, with stores,
restaurants, a Y.M.C.A., a marina and a school. They signed up.
Last
February, they got a call that they were in line for the very last
house in the very first phase of Arverne-by-the-Sea, 32 homes labeled
the Sands at Harbour Pointe. They went to the sales office and poked
around the neighborhood, if it could have been called that. There
were no food stores, save for a bodega. The subway station was a
treacherous 15-minute trek away on the sidewalk-less Rockaway Freeway.
Still, when two buyers in front of them bailed out, Marisol and
Angel scraped together a 10 percent down payment on the $395,000
price. Their new address was on Arverne Mews, a street that did
not yet exist.
The
land where the Guivases were about to put down new roots had been
nothing but sand, weeds and trash for 40 years. It was as though
a real estate curse had befallen it. More wild dogs than people
on the streets. More trash than shells on the beach. The end of
New York, literally and figuratively. It had been fallow, empty,
abandoned, its beachside bungalows razed in the 1960's to make way
for decades of schemes that never materialized. It was part of the
308-acre Arverne Urban Renewal Area, left over long after the idea
of flattening a dense patch of residential land was rejected as
an urban planning concept. The biggest vacant lot in the city.
But
Arverne-by-the-Sea was to change all that. The free sand buckets
and shovels from the sales office depicted people on the beach waving
in front of a brilliant sunset. The ambitious master plan was to
build 117 acres of residential subdivisions with names like Ocean
Breeze, the Tides and the Dunes. The grand total of market-rate
homes to be built by 2007 was 2,300. Marisol and Angel were taking
a grand gamble on a place where no previous project had come to
fruition in nearly half a century.
Land
of 1,000 Schemes
To
stroll on the shores of Arverne these days is to experience loneliness.
Among the bare parcels that were once filled with houses and people,
there is very nearly nothing. The only buildings are a closed bait-and-tackle
outlet and a health clinic. A small "Comfort Station"
sits on the boardwalk just off Beach 73rd Street; a weathered sign
above the boarded-up restrooms says they are "temporarily closed."
The
emptiness invites routine illegal dumping, and in 2001, two joggers,
including a 74-year-old man, were attacked on the boardwalk by wild
dogs. The skyline is composed of the elevated tracks of the A train
and the towers of nearby housing projects. Manhattan, occasionally
visible in the distance from Beach Channel Drive, seems impossibly
far away, sunken into the sea.
Arverne
was not always devastated. In the early 20th century, it was a well-to-do
resort community containing one of the nation's largest hotels,
the Arverne. Aristocrats gamboled in the sea spray.
"It was a vacation area with bungalows and houses and concessions
along the boardwalk," said Jonathan Gaska, district manager
for Community Board 14. "It really mirrored what the old Coney
Island was."
By the 1940's,
Arverne had become a bustling neighborhood. Yet the prosperity that
bolstered other parts of the country in the 50's did not seep into
that part of the Rockaways. Stores, theaters and restaurants fled,
and Arverne declined to the point where the city razed its crumbling
homes and labeled it an "urban renewal area" in 1964.
But nothing was ever renewed.
This is not to
say people haven't tried. In the years before Angel and Marisol
Guivas set foot in Arverne, developers and community leaders brought
forth a cavalcade of ideas, some more preposterous than others.
Few of them took into account the wishes of the surrounding community.
In the late 1980's,
the developer Bruce Ratner proposed 10,000 units of residential
housing in Arverne. Opponents knocked the number of units to 7,500.
But then the New York real estate market imploded and Mr. Ratner's
company pulled out.
A few years later,
the Reichmanns, a Canadian family that built the Canary Wharf development
in London, submitted a proposal to build upon the sands of Arverne
a futuristic pleasure palace, Destination Technodome. It was to
be staggering in scale and include an indoor ski slope. There would
also be theaters, an Olympic-size pool, skating rinks, a hotel and
new jobs projected in the thousands. But the costs the family asked
the city and state to assume, as much as $1 billion, proved too
much, and the project collapsed.
Highly frustrated,
the community asked a team of consultants to sketch out a plan that
would actually work. A proposal was submitted to the Giuliani administration
in 2000 that included the community's desires: attractive housing,
a school, a recreation center and a large amount of retail, specifically
a major supermarket, chain stores and restaurants.
Along with several
other builders, two Long Island developers, the Beechwood Organization
and the Benjamin Companies, assembled a bid for the project. Shortly
after a devastating plane crash in the Belle Harbor section of the
Rockaways in November 2001 that killed 265 people, the Giuliani
administration designated Benjamin-Beechwood as the winning team.
"Within
a week or two of that plane crash, we got the call," said Les
Lerner, a principal of the Beechwood Organization. "Perhaps
they needed to show something positive happening in the Rockaways."
A Grand
Gamble
It
was perhaps a cruel twist that Angel and Marisol Guivas had redone
their kitchen in Sheepshead Bay before getting the call about the
house in Arverne. They had put in new cabinets and appliances and
bought a big new refrigerator, but in just a few weeks, they would
have to shuffle their belongings across the Gil Hodges Memorial
Bridge and onto the Rockaway peninsula.
It was a pleasant
evening in November 2004, and furniture, clothing, empty juice boxes,
catalogs and Gabriel's toys were scattered about in a pre-move jumble.
An enormous sense of expectation permeated the household. "I'm
psyched! You know what I'm saying?" said Angel, 35, his strong
voice booming and his cropped black hair not moving an inch. Enthusiastic
as ever, he clapped his hands together, loud. "I want to get
to work, guys!"
Marisol, a petite,
dark-haired 33-year-old with warmth and energy to spare, laughed.
"It's very 'beach house,' " she said about their new home,
her face glowing. She was pregnant with another baby, due in March.
If the Guivases had not won their lottery spot in Phase 1A of Arverne,
they probably would have had to begin raising the baby in a place
that was not even big enough for the three of them.
To give Gabriel
his own space in their Sheepshead Bay home, they had put his bed
in a narrow room just off the main entrance that resembled a walk-in
closet. Angel painted the ceiling sky blue and added white cloud
puffs. But they knew their 2-year-old needed more space to run around.
Angel and Marisol, who can't seem to stop talking effusively about
their new home, have never had serious doubts about choosing Arverne.
But their final confirmation came from an entrepreneur with slightly
more experience. They attended a real estate expo at the Jacob K.
Javits Convention Center last fall, and one of the events was a
question-and-answer session with Donald Trump.
"What happened
was a girl told him, 'I'm about to go under contract with Arverne-by-the-Sea,'
" Marisol said. "And Trump was like, 'Arverne? Can I have
your contract?' "
"We high-fived,"
Angel said. "It was great! We were so happy. Another person
said, 'I have $20,000 in equity, what can I do with that money?'
And Trump said, 'Arverne.' That's exactly how we took Arverne, as
an opportunity."
Less than a year
after Angel and Marisol bought the house on Arverne Mews for $395,000,
similar units in the newer phases of the development are selling
at prices starting at close to $500,000. In the next section to
be completed, 80 percent of the 121 houses have already been sold.
In the section after that, the waiting list is 500 families long.
People like the Guivases, who bought one of the first houses in
the first development, sowed the seed.
"Pioneers
is a good word," said Mr. Lerner of the Beechwood Organization.
"At the time they committed to buy these houses, all that was
going on in Arverne was these 32 houses. Now they really see that
the dream they gambled on has come to fruition."
Yet in the surrounding
community, there is still very little in terms of amenities. The
only store for more than 10 blocks is a bodega on Rockaway Beach
Boulevard, which shares space in a tiny strip mall with the Dragon
Garden Chinese takeout and an empty storefront that was formerly
home to "Forbidden Tattoos."
Transportation
is another issue. The nearest subway station is the Beach 67th Street
stop on the A train, and getting there requires traipsing through
wide puddles along the Rockaway Freeway, an unlighted street with
fast-moving traffic. The ride into Manhattan, which takes commuters
across Queens and Brooklyn, usually exceeds an hour.
"It's really
an hour and ten or an hour and twenty," said Mr. Gaska of Community
Board 14. But when more people move to Arverne, he said, the community
will lobby the Metropolitan Transportation Authority for express
trains to Manhattan. "They don't have to build new tracks;
they don't have to do anything," he said.
As for groceries,
Mr. Lerner said he and his partners were on the cusp of announcing
a deal with a "major brand-name supermarket" to install
a store in Arverne-by-the-Sea. But for the time being, residents
like the Guivases shuttle over to Brooklyn or out to Long Island
for their basic needs.
Bright
House, Big Future
Upon
his first entry to the house on Arverne Mews, the Guivases' son
announced that it was "Gabriel's house."
"Ooooh,
beautiful," he told his parents. They were not aware he knew
what that word meant, but they accepted his assessment. He now rides
his Li'l Rascal tricycle around in the empty living room, his Lion
King sneakers lighting up the carpet.
The new house
is two stories of gleaming white and gray siding with a white picket
fence. There is a backyard with enough room to barbecue and listen
to the waves. There is a one-bedroom rental unit on the second floor
that already has a tenant.
In the living
room of their part of the house, Angel is painting the walls in
shades of green like "Celery Ice" that get progressively
darker as they approach the back window, which lets in glowing bright
ocean light. There is no direct view of the water, but the beach
is right around the corner.
"It's like
a Florida in New York," Marisol said from the kitchen, where
another new fridge waited to be installed.
"No, no,"
Angel corrected her, "it's California in New York. That's the
way I see it. You see guys in wetsuits out there," he said,
pointing to the ocean, which attracts its own legion of surfers.
Until all the
furniture arrives, Angel, Marisol and Gabriel are staying in the
first-floor bedroom, where they have installed an enormous inflatable
mattress. The garage is full of boxes and shopping bags from Ikea,
and the kitchen counter is scattered with papers and brochures advertising
the model for their unit, "The Brittania."
Neighbors have
already stopped by. Back in Sheepshead Bay, Angel said, "half
the people, they don't really want to talk to you." But in
Arverne-by-the-Sea, he said, "People are like, 'Heyyyy! How
you doin'?' "
"We all
got here almost in the same week," Marisol added of her neighbors.
"We're building relationships together."
To Angel and
Marisol, there is no end to what Arverne-by-the-Sea will bring.
They have talked about investing in other properties in the area,
or maybe even opening a franchise like Starbucks. ("Iced coffee
at the beach!" Marisol said.) Outside, Angel pointed at the
wide expanse of dirt that will become his new community, the expanse
where so many others have seen defeat.
"You see
that lot right there?" he asked. "That's prime real estate.
That's untouched. That's empty. This is what I see that a lot of
people don't see. You just have to have the courage to jump in.
It's unbelievable. It's gonna be great!"
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