I was flying. Suspended between the ocean spray and the open sky facing the Rockaway shore line, I managed to stand up on a surfboard for the first time.
“Yeeeeeeehooooo!” yelled my instructor, Kwame LaBassiere, as he watched from the water on a recent Tuesday morning.
Then came the inevitable: I went under, salt burning my nose, the leash yanking the board sideways around my ankle. My hands and feet went numb in the cold Atlantic water, but I dragged myself up, pulled the board back out and went back in.
LaBassiere changed how I looked at the ocean before I even caught a wave. He told me he started surfing here in Rockaway Beach two days after the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, trying to process the guilt of missing his scheduled workday at the Twin Towers. The ocean became his sanctuary, the place he could let go. Now he sits on the board of the International Surf Therapy Organization.
Out in the water, listening to his steady cues, paddle, pop up, knees bent, my brain completely cleared. There’s no choice: commit or wipe out.
By my fourth try, I was up and riding. For a few fleeting seconds, the entire world narrowed down to that one moving piece of water under my feet.
I was experiencing a century-old feeling. Hawaiian Olympic champion Duke Kahanamoku visited Rockaway after the 1912 Games, sparking its surfing identity. Standing on that board, wobbling, mocked by seagulls, it finally clicked for me. Whatever Kahanamoku felt, whatever Kwame felt paddling out two days after the worst day of his life, I caught a small piece of it too.
You don’t need to be good at surfing. You just need to get on a surfboard and into the water to understand why people keep coming back to Rockaway Beach.
Learning to surf
Rockaway is New York City’s only legal surfing beach, 7 miles of oceanfront where locals, Manhattanites and visitors alike come to work the break, lounge on the sand and hit the boardwalk for live music, bars and food. It’s open to beginner, intermediate and expert surfers, with dedicated zones between Beach 66th and Beach 70th streets, Beach 87th and Beach 92nd streets, and Beach 110th and Beach 111th streets. Kahanamoku’s legacy is still recognized today with Beach 38th Street co-named “Duke Kahanamoku Way.”
I booked a 1-hour session ($110) with New York Surf School (100 Beach 69th St.; newyorksurfschool.com; 718-916-5359), the city’s longest-running. The lesson includes the surfboard and wetsuit. Just wear a bathing suit and show up.
Lessons are available in 1-, 1½- and 2-hour blocks, though LaBassiere notes that most first-timers stand up within an hour, so don’t be intimidated. Charging through the breaks is the perfect introduction to Rockaway’s vibrant, resilient spirit. Plus, after burning 500 calories in the ocean, my appetite was perfectly primed for the boardwalk food scene.
Walk the boardwalk and eat your way through it
The boardwalk runs 5½ miles from Beach Ninth Street in Far Rockaway out to Beach 126th Street in Rockaway Park. The concessions cluster around the middle stretch between Beach 86th and Beach 106th Street, which is where the spots below are. Public restrooms are spaced out along the boardwalk near the main concession area.
Caracas Arepa Bar
Beach 106th Street; caracasarepabar.com
The pabellón arepa ($15) with shredded beef, beans and plantains is a standout, and the frozen sangría ($14.50) is a staple on hot days. Live music Fridays through Sundays adds to the atmosphere.
Brothers
Beach 106th Street; instagram.com/brothersrockaway
A lighter option with organic smoothies and sandwiches. The kimchi grilled cheese ($12), smoothies ($13-14) and juices ($8-9) are a good break from heavier beach food.
Rippers
Beach 86th Street; eatrippers.com
A classic boardwalk hangout with double smash cheeseburgers ($12), cheese fries ($10) and beachy cocktails ($12). Picnic tables offer a spot to settle in and enjoy the live music and DJs.
Tacoway Beach
3-02 Beach 87th St.; tacowaybeach.com
One of the most popular stops just off the boardwalk and inside nearby Rockaway Beach Surf Club at Beach 87th Street. Fish tacos come two per order ($13) and are topped with cabbage, guacamole and a spiced mayo. Expect a line, especially on weekends, but it moves steadily.
Take a break from the sand
Bungalow Bar
3-77 Beach 92nd St.; bungalowbarny.com; 718-945-2100
For a sit-down meal, this spot is found along Jamaica Bay with waterfront and skyline views. Seafood and American classics, including sriracha oysters ($14) and a creamy seafood pasta ($34), plus a full bar and frozen drinks ($14). Works well for a late lunch or early dinner.
End the night like a local
Connolly’s Bar
1-55 Beach 95th St.; connollysrbny.com; 718-474-2374
Off the boardwalk and cash only, Connolly’s has been a neighborhood fixture for decades, no frills, filled with regulars. Get the classic piña colada. It’s a good look at Rockaway beyond the beach crowd.
For something more polished to close out the night, head to the rooftop at The Rockaway Hotel (108-10 Rockaway Beach Dr.; therockawayhotel.com; 718-474-1216) for sunset drinks and live music with the ocean in view. If you’re looking to stay the night, rates start at $275 per night.
Getting there
If you’re driving, expect a 1- to 2-hour trip depending on summer traffic. The Belt Parkway gets you to either the Marine Parkway or Cross Bay Bridge, and both drop you onto the peninsula within minutes.
Parking is competitive through the summer. There’s a free lot on Beach 95th Street that tends to fill by 10 a.m., and free street parking along the residential blocks and Beach Channel Drive on a first come basis. You can also park at Jacob Riis Park (157 Rockaway Beach Blvd.) for $20 a day.
To skip traffic entirely, take the Long Island Rail Road to Jamaica, transfer to the Far Rockaway branch, and ride it to the last stop. From there, take the Q22 bus ($2.90) to Beach 90th Street or take the A train straight to the beach.
Newsday travel reporter Carissa Kellman uncovers adventures, bites and hidden spots on Long Island and beyond, with the same drive that once kept her courtside at high school sports games.